Cats and dogs. They have a long history of misunderstandings and feuds, and if you are watching some cartoons, you will know that they are mortal enemies. But in real life, some dogs are okay living with cats, but other dogs cannot stand living with felines. A few dogs can live with particular cats, but that depends on the feline’s age, temperament, and activity level, and the rest of their kind cannot. If you have a dog who has successfully lived with cats in the past, it is crucial to consider that each dog and each cat is an individual and each introduction is different.

Pay Attention to Their Body Language

As you introduce your dog to a cat, you have to pay attention to both of their body languages. They have distinct body languages that will indicate whether they are pleased or not with the meeting. For the cat’s body language, if the ear is pinned back or the tail is swishing back and forth, it is an indicator that they are not pleased with the meeting. A dog’s body language is a potential warning sign for any catastrophic incident that may happen. If the dog has a strong prey drive or the inclination to seek out chase or capture an animal they see as prey, it might see the cat as prey and focus on it. The dog will stiffen, stare, and it might start barking or whining. If these are all observed from the dog, do not let them near the cat. If the dog is not eyeing the cat as prey, it will be loose and relaxed around it. It’s acceptable if the dog pays attention to the cat, but do not let the dog get fixated on it.

A dog’s interaction with a cat can change depending on the environment they are in. For example, if you can see the dog acting okay with the cat inside the house, this behavior might change if they are outdoors. However, suppose the dog is fixated on the cat and starts stalking it when they are outside together. In that case, you must be aware of the dog’s body language around the cat in each new situation until you know how they will respond towards each other.

Examples of Dog’s Body Language

Play Bow

This means that they want to play, and their rear end is up, and their front end is down.

Tail Wagging

Tail wagging has different meanings depending on the tail’s position.

Low-hung wag – Scared or unsure.

High, stiff wag – agitated, unsure or scared. If the body is stiff, the dog is staring, and ears up, use caution. The dog might become aggressive.

Loose wag – not too high, not too low – Comfortable and friendly. Be aware of other dogs who need a lot of personal space.

Freeze

This means that the dog is scared or guarding something and has the tendency to bite.

Rolling Over

It can generally mean that it is not a threat. A gentle wagging tail and slightly open mouth suggest it’s asking for a belly rub. But some dogs will ask for attention by rolling over and become fearful and defensive. It’s still best to observe the whole body language of the dog before doing anything.

Ears Perked Up

It means it is alert and interested in something.

Tail Between the Legs

It means it is afraid and uncomfortable about something.

Methods to Introduce a Dog and a Cat

There are several ways to introduce a dog and a cat, and if the first method did not work, there are other ways to try. However, even if a dog has previous experience with cats or the cat was previously living with a dog, proceed with caution when introducing the two pets. It is best to have two people, and each one will handle one of them. If introducing multiple pets, introduce them one by one.

Option 1: The Slow and Steady Desensitization

If the dog is too fixated on the cat, desensitization can be done. Desensitization by definition is the treatment or process that diminishes emotional responsiveness to a negative, aversive or positive stimulus after repeated exposure to it. The goal of desensitization is for the dog to get accustomed to the cat by gradually increasing the cat’s exposure to the dog.

Put the cat in a room where the dog cannot access it or does not need to access it. Put a tall baby gate across the door to avoid the cat from getting out. Do not let the dog and cat be in the same room. The goal is to separate them and only allow them to view each other during specific times. In the cat’s room, give the cat everything it needs like the litter box, food, water, and toys. The gate should be tall enough, so the cat cannot climb or jump over it.

To begin the desensitization, let the dog see the cat briefly through the gate and get the dog to focus on something else. Give it a toy or practice cues, or use a dog leash to move the dog away to make it focus on something else. Continue the short viewing of the cat throughout the day, so the dog will gradually get used to its presence, and so will the cat too.

Seeing the cat for the first time can be overwhelming for the dog. If the dog shows or acts too overwhelmed, close the door or prohibit them from seeing each other. Give them different food to calm them down. If seeing each other is not working well, swap out their blankets or bedding and make them use them to get used to the scent of the other pet. Being familiar with their aroma will help them stay calm and avoid over stimulation when they see each other again.

By slowly letting the dog see the cat and getting accustomed to its presence, the dog will eventually be desensitized and lose interest in the cat. In some cases, a dog loses interest in the cat after a few hours, but for some, it can take days, weeks, or months to happen. Each pet is an individual, and they each will learn at their own pace.

It is possible that the dog may not safely share a space with the cat. If that happens, keep them apart. Dogs can injure or kill a cat quickly if they become aggressive. The priority is to ensure both the pets’ and your safety.

Option 2: Face-to-face Introduction

A faster pace of introduction is to introduce them face to face. One person holds the dog loosely while watching its body language. Another one should watch the cat’s body language. If the cat is not arching its back and hissing around the dog, it can move around freely. Cats are rarely threatening to dogs. Even if the cat goes sometimes, they can become offensive when meeting a dog.

If the dog is calm around the cat, it will stay and let it sniff around it. But if the dog is too fixated on the cat with stiff body language, try a different strategy in getting them to share a space.

Option 3: Look at That

The Look at That method is a more structured training if the earlier two options are not working. Playing the Look at That (LAT) with the dog helps them not get too fixated on the cat. You are teaching the dog to look at the cat and look back at you for a treat. Essentially, it will learn that it is more rewarding not to pay attention to the cat.

To start the LAT training, find out the dog’s threshold while it is on leash. The threshold is determined by recognizing at what point the dog notices the cat, but will still respond to you when you call its name. Each dog has a different threshold. You will know if you have gone past its threshold if the dog starts barking or lunging at the cat. Another sign that you are getting close to the cat is if the dog begins to stiffen its body and to call its name is not working. It is time to move a few feet away from the cat before the dog attacks it.

After figuring out the dog’s threshold, a clicker can help get its attention to do something else. If a clicker is not available, a verbal marker works fine. Keeping some treats close by will help keep the dog calm as you give it treats for being a ‘good pup.’

If you can see that the dog is looking at the cat, use the clicker or use the verbal marker and give the dog a treat. You will have to put the treat in front of its nose for the first few times, but eventually, it should start looking expectantly at you as soon as it hears the marker. The marker means a treat is coming, and treats are always enticing for dogs. Use up to 10 treats, giving the marker every time it looks at the cat.

On the 11th time, wait and see if the dog will look at the cat and look right back at you. If it did, give it a treat. If it did not, make another ten marks until the dog gets used to the presence of the cat. If the dog starts to look at the cat reliably, you start moving slowly towards the cat. If the dog becomes fixated again, it means you have gone beyond the threshold, and you need to move back.

As you train your dog, the threshold decreases, and slowly you will be able to get closer to the cat. Continue practicing LAT with your dog until it can be right next to the cat without an issue.

Seek Professional Help

Animals with previous experience with other animals can easily adjust and adapt to a new pet in the house. If you think you cannot handle training or teach the pets to interact without having problems, it is always the best option to seek a professional’s help, from a dog trainer or a consultant. Never use punishment for your pets, as it can only worsen the situation.